NEW YORK–The naked body is more of a commodity now than ever. Because of multiple current-day factors, the body-positivity, free the nipple, and the body empowerment movement, the naked body is being embraced as a positive commodity more than ever. We see this in innovative cut outs, transparent material choices, styling and merchandising as well. Previously, the grunge & 90s movement–and the naked dressing that went along with it–had a pejorative, druggy, and even exploitative angle to it. Now, in 2023, timeless 90s fashion trends, including grunge & naked dressing are making a coming back. From bare skin, to hardware & material specific codes are appearing on everyone from Julia Fox, to Camille Charriere, to a scattering of the MET Gala & After party looks looks. Angora has first-hand knowledge on how these cyclical trends are trickling back into commercial demand for smaller boutique clients, as well as multi-door mass-market brands.
NEW YORK–The naked body is more of a commodity now than ever. Because of multiple current-day factors, the body-positivity, free the nipple, and the body empowerment movement, the naked body is being embraced as a positive commodity more than ever. We see this in innovative cut outs, transparent material choices, styling and merchandising as well. Previously, the grunge & 90s movement–and the naked dressing that went along with it–had a pejorative, druggy, and even exploitative angle to it.
Now, in 2023, timeless 90s fashion trends, including grunge & naked dressing are making a coming back. From bare skin, to hardware & material specific codes are appearing on everyone from Julia Fox, to Camille Charriere, to a scattering of the MET Gala & After party looks looks. Angora has first-hand knowledge on how these cyclical trends are trickling back into commercial demand for smaller boutique clients, as well as multi-door mass-market brands.
Today, we are seeing the wearer–the inhabiter of the naked body-taking control, which feels like a departure from the attitude of 30 years ago...especially because of the types of bodies that are choosing to go on display. Women, men, non-binary individuals, with all kinds of bodies, are exploring this trend. A little back-story on Naked Dressing: in an article titled, “Tits Out for 2023,” on Culted.com explained how the term ‘naked dress’ didn’t arise until Sarah Jessica Parker wore the infamous DKNY slip dress in 1997, (source: refinery 29). However, “illusion dresses” go back to earliest 20 century Hollywood and burlesque.
Marilyn Monroe brought it to mainstream by wearing a sheer dress in 1962, which created a scandal when she, in it, sang happy birthday to then President John F. Kennedy, a rumored lover when his wife, Jacqueline Kennedy was in the same room sitting next to him, in probably the most opposite thing than a naked dress.
We remind the reader that Kim Kardashian at last year’s MET Gala 2022 wore this exact dress, and at this years Gala, she wore an even more naked dress with just cascades of pearls covering her top and bottom.
After the 60s and early 70s it quieted down, but then when Kate Moss wore her sheer slip dress in 90s, it brought on a wave of attention. Dressers have been emulating her ever since.
In 2014, Rihanna wore a naked dress to the CFDAs and at the time it was greeted as a-typical. While it hasn’t been super popular up until the last couple years, we’re now seeing it making a comeback on the red carpet and in designer collections, left and right, as more of a norm, rather than an anomaly. Dua Lipa also wore a Naked Dress for the Barbie Premiere. In the last 2 years, we have seen see-through & dramatic cut out styles make appearances in the collections of Hill House Home (see-through eyelet & lace nap dresses!), LPA (Cut outs!), Skims (bras as tops! Mesh dresses!), as well as Nensi Dojaka, Supriya Lele, and Isa Boulder (to name a few)–all of which are contemporary RTW brands. (The latter three are experts on the subject, with their assortment heavily predominantly leaning towards “Naked Dressing.”)
Even at this year’s MET Gala, whose theme, “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty,” focused on honoring the late designer’s work across his stewardship of brands Chloé, Fendi, and most predominantly Chanel, we saw a lot of naked dressing, a tendency which did not actually play a huge role in Lagerfeld’s work. One of Donatella Versace’s contributions to the Gala was a look worn by Anne Hathaway, which was a take on a Versace archive piece designed by her brother Gianni Versace. Known as the, “Safety Pin Dress,”–or as it is often referred to as, “That Dress”–the design, originally in a black silk & lycra, was worn by Elizabeth Hurley in 1994 for the “Four Weddings & A Funeral” premiere. Among one of Versace’s most well-known creations, the dress was received with scandal, but also obsession and is, according to Wikipedia, “credited by some for launching Ms. Hurley onto the global media stage,” given that she was relatively unknown and attending the premiere as Hugh Grant’s date for that evening. “Some viewed the dress as too lewd or distastefully revealing, but Hurley replied, “that unlike many other designers, Versace designs clothes to celebrate the female form, rather than eliminate it,” as is described in the dress’s very own Wikipedia article. A spitting image of “That Dress,” is the strapless version that Anne Hathaway’s donned this year. Made in a Chanel-esque pink & white tweed, it featured full exposure from her clavicle, to her chest-bone, through her her mid-line, and all the way down to reveal a naked leg. It was one of the most striking looks on the red carpet this year.
Other Naked-dressing Met Gala attendees included Gigi Hadid in Givenchy, Little Nas X who wore a full silver body look, emulating the late Lagerfeld’s beloved Cat Choupette. This look included a thong & a mask; his bottom was covered only by full silver body glitter. Alton Mason, who in 2018 became the first Black male model to walk for Chanel, wore a striking white lace corset & see-through pant bride look—complete with a long beaded veil—for the Gala.
The after-party showcased even more naked looks. One of the most striking was Paloma Elsesser, who wore a multi-cross pearl and crystal chain top designed by CHRISHABANA. Other Naked Dressers included Kendall Jenner, in a custom Nensi Dojaka outfit, inspired by a look from Chanel’s Spring 1994 show, which included a sheer sequined micro-romper with short shorts and a black thong on top, accompanied by, a black tank top bolero with delicate pearl straps underneath.
What was consistent throughout were the throwbacks, recreations, or heavily inspired 90’s couture/ iconic looks that were recreated for this year’s Met Gala. This emphasis on the 90’s is significant, as Naked Dressing was seemingly used as a tool to push the boundaries, where as now it is more-so accepted and par-for-the course, as if it is almost gauche to act surprised about, or point out, the naked-factor.
A great deal of this movement has to do with reclaiming our bodies, taking back agency, and deciding to ‘expose our bodies in the way we want to.’ It’s not quite supposed to be seen as a feminist movement, but more so a ‘we can if we want to’ statement of choice.
Memorably, one example (and perhaps one of the earliest examples of “naked dressing” at that) which strongly echos the statement above, was Rose McGowan’s 1998 VMA dress. As reviewed in an June 17, 2017 online Evening Standard Style Section article by Megan C. Hills, the author recaps a conversation between McGowan and Jameela Jamil, on the latter’s interview series “I Weigh.” During the interview, McGowan reveals that the iconic look was intended to send a very specific message: a 'political statement.' Pre-dating, and setting the stage for Rihanna’s Swarovski crystal CFDA outfit in 2014, McGowan shared that, “her dress had deeper significance, as it was the first dress she wore after she was attacked by disgraced Hollywood mogul Harvey Weinstein.” She also went on to share that, “of course, there was no Twitter at the time or Instagram, no way to speak for yourself.” McGowan further explains in her memoir, Brave, that the styling choice was “a reclamation of my own body after my assault.”
Ironically, McGowan attended the VMAs with Marilyn Manson, her then boyfriend, who also appears with her in many of the red carpet photographs; years later, Marylin Manson has been accused by McGowan and more than a dozen other women, as being the perpetrator of many of the same violent sex & abuse of power crimes as Weinstein.
A substantial article on the topic titled, “Naked Dressing has you Covered,” by the New York Times, author Vanessa Freedman explains, “The new naked dressing subverts both shibboleths, suggesting that exposure does not equate to vulnerability but strength and that the body just as it is is just fine.”Valerie Steele, Director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, interviewed for the same article, revealed that, “what Ms. Steele calls ‘unfamiliar skin’ or ‘moving skin’—folds and pooches and body parts not traditionally considered offered for public consumption—these clothes startle viewers out of their comfort zones and challenge received convention. They are entirely unabashed.”
In this way, it relates significantly to grunge, as this movement was so rooted in freedom of choice. We also see grunge appearing in styling and make-up looks, often incorporated in with a ‘naked dressing’ look. These also exist on their own.
Additional adopters of “Naked Dressing” like influencers Camille Charriere, Harry Styles, Lizzo, Thimotée Chalamet, and the slew of other naked-dressing attendees at this years’ 2023 MET Gala (Alton Mason, Gigi Hadid, Rachel Brosnahan, Karen Elson, Michaela Coel, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Kim Kardashian, Amber Valleta, Lil Nas x, Amanda Seyfreid, Suki Waterhouse, Dua Lipa, Janelle Monáe, Alexandra Daddario, Jennifer Lopez, Rita Ora) and then at the after party, (Kendall Jenner, Jenelle Monae (even more naked), Paloma Elesser, Olivia Wilde, Emily Ratajkowski) on fashion’s biggest night, prove that this trend is here to stay.
We see it in the design & development inspirations with our clients in innovative cut outs, transparent material choices, and in merchandising as well. Currently, we are working with a client that also sees the classic moments of 90s fashion as something they’re embracing for their new collection. We predict this will continue to pop-up across fashion weeks & line plans through Q4 2023, as well as into 2024.
Keep your eye out for 90s fashion continuing to making a comeback–as well as Naked Dressing, which is here to stay.
